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Do just about anything to your motorcycle, but forget the most basic and fundamental additive - Oil - and your wallet could be hanging loose for a long time.

How often you change the oil, the level you fill it up to and the kind of oil you use all make the difference between a bike that lasts and a bike that doesn’t!

These are a few of the most basic tips when it comes to oil and motorcycles…

When do you change your bike’s oil?

Over time and with prolonged use the integrity of the oil breaks down. Varies forces at work within the engine actually tear away at the very molecules of the oil, so the old oil must be periodically replaced every 2-3 thousand kilometres.

Smaller motorcycles run hotter than bigger bikes, so their oil needs to be replaced more frequently.

Motorcycle Maintenance Tips for Changing Oil:

It’s best to drain the oil when the bike is properly warmed up, this thins the oil and makes it drain out faster.

Remember to park the bike on it’s centre stand on level ground.

Oil gets everywhere when the sump plug is released, so make sure to have a big enough container before hand.

Remember to check the oil filter and change it if need be!

Running in a New Motor

New motorcycles require a little more care when it comes to oil. The surfaces inside of the new engine are quite rough and require time to wear smooth. The particles of metal released during this process need to be flushed out of the engine, so halve the normal oil change intervals for the first two changes.

Additives that are Supposed to Prolong!

The benefits of oil additives sound good, especially when you’ve bought a used motorcycle…

Better performance

Lowered fuel consumption etc.

The stories mechanics tell you vary. Some good, some bad! However, never use additives on a new motorcycle as this will prolong the running in process.

That’s about all. These are only a few of the basics when it comes to oil and your motorcycle. Know your bike and you’ll discover its exact requirements.

BikeFinder provides up-to-date photos of motorcycles for sale in the Cape Town area. Read a selection of articles, see a range of accessories and find special offers.

These sliders have been designed to offer unsurpassed protection for your Yamaha
FJR1300 in the unfortunate event of a lowside or tip over. Motovation frame sliders
are designed and manufactured by a company that only makes frame sliders. Each
and every model is tested for drop and slide protection. They are tough but not
brittle and can also absorb a huge impact. Sportsriders around the world who have
tested various models of our products on the track have all given their thumbs up
after experiencing first hand, the benefits of Motovation Frame Sliders.

Please read all instructions before beginning work! These frame sliders are designed
to fit specific engine mounts of your Yamaha FJR1300. This kit has separate left and
right pieces (left and right while sitting on the bike). It is highly recommended that
you refer to your service manual before performing this installation. If you are
unsure about the tightening torque, check your motorcycle’s manual or
www.motovationusa.com/torque.html for a quick reference guide.

Included in this kit:
2 x Left/ Right side frame sliders
2 x thicker aluminum spacers ( Left )
2 x thinner aluminum spacers ( Right )
2 x Left/ Right Hi Grade aluminum brackets
3 x m12 x 80mm socket head cap screws
1 x m12 x 70mm socket head cap screw
2 x m10 x 50mm socket head capscrews for sliders.

Tools Required:
Torque Wrench
12mm allen key for Torque Wrench
14mm socket
Phillips screw driver

INSTRUCTIONS: Attempt this install one side at a time.

1)
Remove both side fairings.
Remove left side original bolts. Leave original washers in place.
Install the supplied spacers as shown:
Left Side Spacers x 2 pcs (thicker ones).
Right Side Spacers x 2 pcs (thinner ones).

2)
Install the left side bracket with the thicker spacers as shown.
Tighten to manufacturer’s recommended torque. (40ft/lbs)
Using the supplied M12 x 80mm bolts.

3)
Remove right side original bolts. Leave original washers in place.
Install the right side bracket with the thinner spacers as shown
Tighten to manufacturer’s recommended torque.(40 ft/lbs)
Using the supplied 1 x M12 x 70mm bolt for the upper location.
Using the supplied 1 x M12 x 80mm bolt for the lower location.

4)
Re-install the left and right fairings to their original locations. This will leave only
the mounting locations for the frame sliders visible on both sides.

5)
Install the supplied frame sliders with the remaining bolts and tighten.
Do not overtighten.

Motovation Accessories is a distributor for Yamaha frame sliders and accessories:
http://www.motovationUSA.com
For detailed installation pictures, go to:
http://www.motovationusa.com/Install_FSY05S_FJR1300.html

How are Motorcycle Batteries Rated?

The amp/hour (AH) capacity is the basis for rating motorcycle batteries. For example, a 12AH battery can produce one amp of current flow for 12 hours, or two amps for six hours. In order to calculate the amount of time needed to use up a fully charged motorcycle battery by turning the lights on, we have to take power in watts, and divide it by voltage, which gives us the current draw in Amps. Therefore, a 72 watts beam and tail together, divided by 12 volts equals a 6-amp draw. So in 2 hours, the 12AH battery is dead.

Checking Motorcycle Battery:

If you decide to check if your new motorcycle battery is done correctly, follow this actual factory-recommended service procedure.

If the battery is not a maintenance-free type which doesn’t have a vent tube, unwrap the battery, unkink the vent tube and snip about a half-inch off the end. Fill it with electrolyte midway (between the high and low level markings on the case) and leave it undisturbed for one or two hours. Remember, the battery will still be at only 65% of full charge at this point. Add electrolyte again if required.

If your battery is a refillable lead-antimony type, it should be charged at one-third of its rated capacity in amp/hours for four to five hours to get it to full charge. Maintenance-free type battery should be charged with a constant-current charger that can drive the charge with as much as 16.9 volts. This should be closely supervised so as not to exceed full charge.

Next, recheck the electrolyte level and add water if required. Let the battery cool so the case contracts enough to fit into its typically tight little holder. Run the new breather tube, if the battery comes along with one, carefully through the original factory routing.

Things to Remember when Charging the Battery:

1. First of all, it is important to remember that Red is positive and Black is negative in order to avoid any accidents such as short-circuits and nasty shocks.

2. The charger should be compatible with the motorcycle battery, and give a greater output than the battery voltage but not too high.

3. Make sure the connections are clean and the electrolyte is at the upper level, and don’t fill the cells up to the very top of the battery.

4. You can either use an optimizer on the battery which can effectively switch off the battery when it’s charged and prevents overheating, or disconnect it manually.

5. It is recommended to put your battery on charge every two or three weeks.

6. An upper and lower level battery should have all the cells on the upper level, not over and never under the lower level.

7. For topping off the low cells, use only distilled water.

8. The minimum charge for a new batter should be at least for 8 hours.

9. If you have a dry battery, fill the cells slowly and leave the battery for around half an hour.

http://batteries-hq.com/ Batteries HQ: everything you need to know about batteries.

Dirt Bike Crashes are sometimes comical, are usually painful, and unfortunately they sometimes have dire consequences. Dirt bike crashes are bound to happen to every rider at some point, and no amount of safety gear is going to prevent you from crashing.

Basically, what you will discover is that there are two dirt bike racer categories. The first category is made up of racers who have been down, and the second is racers who are going to go down.

Ask any dirt bike enthusiast and they’ll likely have a few crash stories to tell you. Some stories you may hear include classic crash scenarios such as the slow graceful slide as you lose the rear wheel, here classical music playing and wonder if it’s ever going to end to the ‘out of the blue’, slam into the ground as if a hand reached out of middle earth and grabbed your front wheel leaving your head spinning as your on the ground thinking “What the…”

It’s not just reckless and inexperienced drivers who wind up in crashes like the one described above, even the most experienced dirt bikers can crash. Thus, remember, they can happen to anyone.

When do dirt bike crashes happen?
Dirt bike crashes often happen when you least expect them too, and when you are an inexperienced rider. They can also happen when a rider:

• Is in full flight
• Is going down a straight at full throttle
• Is barely moving
• Is performing a jump
• Is starting off
• Etc.

How do dirt bike crashes happen?
Dirt bike crashes can happen at any time and at any speed. They can occur:

• By hitting a bump
• By clipping tires with another rider
• By making the wrong decision
• By losing control of the bike
• Etc.

Why do dirt bike crashes happen?
Usually there isn’t any one reason why a dirt bike crash happens. Sometimes it’s because something goes wrong with the bike. Other times it could be caused by another rider losing control and crashing into you, or it could simply be caused by a pure and utter fluke. That being said, some causes that make you more susceptible to crashing include:

• Fatigue - if you are tired your mind is only half working, and your reflexes and motor skills are not at their full strength.
• Lack of fitness - Being in shape helps you better control and maneuver your body with your bike. You will also develop faster motor skills, and improve your hand-eye coordination.
• Lack of concentration - You need focus when you are riding your dirt bike. You should never race when you are overly emotional. For instance, if you are angry because you just had a fight with your best friend, your mind will be more focused on the fight than it will be on the upcoming turn on the track.
• Riding beyond your skill level - You should ride at the level you are comfortable. If you are an inexperienced rider you shouldn’t be trying to perform jumps or stunts that are beyond your skill. Recklessly riding your dirt bike is a fast pass to a hospital bed.
• Riding too fast for a section - While you can crash at any speed, you are more likely to crash if you are speeding around certain areas of a track that aren’t designed for that speed. You need to control your speed around turns, ditches, etc. Pre-walking a track is an important aspect of any motocross meet.
• Attempting an obstacle you’re not ready for - If you don’t feel comfortable performing a stunt or trick you don’t think you’re ready for, or you know you are not ready for, don’t do it. It’s that simple.

Ways to avoid crashes
While you may not be able to avoid every crash that has your name on it, there are ways that you can improve your chances of being involved in fewer and less serious crashes:

Practice – Take the time to practice and improve your skill level. While practicing won’t make you perfect, it will certainly reduce your chance of crashing.

Train – Developing a training regimen and stick to it. If you truly want to enjoy racing your dirt bike, you need to take the sport seriously. Devote time to your hobby.

Think Smart - Getting rid of the “Win or Bail trying” attitude. Ride with common sense and put your safety first. Winning isn’t worth dying for.

Wear Protective Gear – Wearing the proper gear will help you walk away from crashes with minor injuries. The most important protective gear is the helmet. You should never ride without a helmet. Quite frankly that’s just plain stupid and suicidal. Other great items you can wear include proper boots, trousers, jersey, and gloves.

Mark Sturge is the webmaster at http://www.dirtbike-action.com A site where visitors can see online video of dirt bike crashes, motocross gear as well as useful hints and tips for dirtbike enthusiasts.

Most of us take our bicycle wheels for granted. Once we’re rolling, we may think about the handlebars or derailleur and we definitely think about the saddle, but until we get a flat tire, we rarely give a thought to our wheels. Just like someone who works on their feet all day should pay attention to the shoes they wear, bike riders should know at least a little about their wheels.

When we say “bicycle wheels,” we are talking about the whole circular complex of the front and back wheels. No matter what kind of riding you do, road or mountain, racing or recreational, your wheels, linked to your human kinetics power through the crank of the bike pedals, are what move you through a distance in such an eminently satisfying manner. They consist of a tire, probably a tube inside the tire, a rim, spokes, and a hub. The tube is going to claim the most attention: this is what goes flat when you ride over a tack or thorn or simply inflate it wrongly. At very least, every single bike rider out there, anywhere, should know how to change a tube and carry a spare tube and a pump or air cartridge. It will seem like so much extra baggage right up to the moment your tube blows. At that precise moment, your spare tube and air supply turn instantaneously into salvation. Riding any distance at all on a flat tire will destroy your rims, and this is a costly replacement.Carry a tube and know how to change it.

Your tires will age, but not so quickly that you will need to replace them often during the practical lifetime of your bicycle. What you will probably find in regard to this component of your bicycle wheel is that you will choose to have several different tires for your bike, especially if you are riding a hybrid model that crosses the lines between road and mountain models. You will want knobbier tires for off-road adventures and smoother tires for your daily commuting or for that long distance road ride. Basically, the knobbier and fatter your tires, the more stable your ride AND the more work it will take to propel them. Balance your needs by investing in a second set of tires.The kind of frame you have will affect what tires you can fit, but there are varieties for all frames.

As for the rest of what constitutes your bicycle wheels, the spokes and rims and hubs, there is not much you will do once you have your bicycle. Rims and spokes and hubs vary enormously, but once you have purchased your bicycle you won’t do much to these elements other than to keep them clean, free of dirt and grease. Wiping down your bike after a ride is an exceptionally good practice, and while you’re doing it, always run your fingertips lightly over each tire. Early detection of burrs and glass shards can spare you (excuse the pun!) a flat on your next ride.

Alastair Hamilton is a successful writer who offers a truly unique depth of experience in competitive cycling, he also contributes adding technical articles on road bikes to some cycling online magazines like http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com You will find further information on bike wheels and tires at http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com/bike-parts/bicycle-wheels.html

With Spring fast approaching I thought it would be a good idea to start publishing a few motorcycle riding tips that you can practice once you dust off your bike and get it ready for Daytona Bike week or your first spring ride. One thing I hear from a lot of motorcyclists is that they have been riding for some many years and do not need to practice any riding skills. This is just an ignorant statement to make and often fueled by ego and pride. I have seen veteran riders of twenty years; do the stupidest things on a motorcycle. Sure they have been riding for twenty years, but have they truly ever learned to really ride correctly with skill and confidence. Sure some have the natural motor skills to perform well on a motorcycle but these refresher tips are there to make you more competent on your motorcycle while also boosting your ego since others will be impressed by your riding skills. Honest, you will be amazed how people notice a good competent rider.

This lesson will discuss Limited-space maneuvers. Now you may think, what? If I am going slow in a parking lot or driveway, why do I need to practice these types of motorcycle riding maneuvers? While not as dangerous as intersections or other road hazards, limited-space maneuvers, like parking areas, can be quite a challenge. Practice turning at low speeds, and do not forget to use the counterweight technique to help balance your motorcycle at slow speeds. This means to put more pressure on the outmost footrest, leaning the upper body outward opposite the turn. You can also move off the center of the seat, opposite from the turn, to improve balance and turning capability.

The best-trained motorcyclists are Police Motormen. These motorcycle cops are trained to maneuver large police motorcycles at slow speeds in tight situations. Police Motormen practice doing U-turns within two marked parking spaces. Sounds easy right? Well it is not. Go out and try it one day. I guarantee it will take you 4 spaces or more to do a U-turn. Odds are some of you may even drop your bike. The trick is to use your clutch friction zone and rear brake to get the motorcycle to maneuver and handle at very slow speeds. By slow speeds I mean under 5MPH. Walking pace. Police need to do this all the time and they have the best riding techniques. The other key is to look where you want the motorcycle to go. If you look down while performing a tight figure eight or a U-turn, I guarantee you will go where you are looking – down.

I initially practiced these techniques and was amazed at how difficult it was to turn your motorcycle around by performing a U-turn while trying to keep the turn within two parking spaces. It took me several hours over a few days to get the hang of it. Next I added in figure eights and slow crawl riding as if I were in a parade. As my skill improved with this technique and my rear brake and clutch were showing signs of wear, I become very confident that I could handle my motorcycle in tight situations.

The benefits of practicing this riding technique are that you become more skilled with handling your motorcycle. If you find you are on a narrow country road, you will have the confidence to know that you can safely and skillfully perform a U-turn in the limited space provided. While attending motorcycle events where parking is at a premium, this slow speed practice will help you maneuver threw the crowded parking lot without smashing into and pedestrians or parked motorcycles. Again, I found myself using this skill set a lot. Other motorcyclists noticed my skill. They were amazed that I could maneuver a large Victory Kingpin in the limited spaces. Even when carrying a passenger. So dust off your motorcycle and dust of your stale riding techniques and hit the nearest vacant parking lot for some much needed practice.

Here are some tips for parking safely:

- If parking in a parallel parking space next to a curb, position the motorcycle at an angle with the rear wheel to the curb.

- If using the side stand, turn the handlebars to the left for added stability; lock the forks for security.

- The feet on sides and center stands can sink into soft surfaces causing the motorcycle to fall. To prevent this, carry a flattened aluminum can or similar rigid object to put under the stand.

- Park the motorcycle in first gear for extra stability, particularly if on an incline.

Contributing author to Cycle Solutions
http://www.CycleSolutions.net
and
Kingpin Cruisers
http://www.KingpinCruisers.net

Because of the legal/illegal status of radar detectors in the US market many different models with different functions from different brands have emerged onto the market.

Some of these radar detectors are the following:

• Radar Screamer. This unit provides immediate warning in order to get the attention of the driver. This enhances the audio warning which is produced by many radar detectors to allow the motorcycle rider to better hear the warning while at constant speed. This is a water proof device and does not depend on any replaceable batteries.

• Escort 8500 X50. This is known to be the one of best radar detectors in the market. It offers advanced digital signal processing which can be reprogrammed and will also allow you to customize your detector. This unit can be upgraded. It has a very clever auto sensitivity mode, which automatically lessens false alarms.

• HARD (Helmet Assisted Radar Detection). This unit provides an urgent visual alert. The warning can be find inside the helmet, lighting up within your field of vision which allows the immediate awareness of the radar. This is designed as an accessory to all the leading radar detectors, especially designed for motorcycling.

• Bel RX65. This is a the fast response device, featuring ‘Threat Display’ which tracks multiple radar signals and their relative signal strength. This allows you to customize up to 7 options for your specific driving style. Beltronics state that this is their most advanced radar, laser and safety detector.

• Cobra XRS9700 Radar Detector. This model is equipped with many features including the 11-Band technology and the SmartMute. This offers three levels of false signal controls which lessen false alerts.

• PNI Sensor Traveler II Radar Detector. This is one of the most advanced and user friendly radar detector sold nowadays. This featured bilingual voice alerts - English and Spanish. The PNI Sensor is convenient to use because of it is a cordless device.

• Whistler Pro 1730. This features a voice alert and optional mute.

• Rocky Mountain Radar RMR-D230. This automatically adjusts the laser background noise which lessens false alarms. This increases the typical scanning process by a factor of three which enables the D230 to catch even Instant-On and POP radar.

• Escort Solo II. This features the following:

1. Convenient cordless design uses

2. Uses 2 AA batteries, this maximizes the battery life

3. AutoSensitivity mode virtually eliminates false alarms

4. Long-range protection on all radar bands

5. VG-2 Protection

6. 10 user programmable features

7. High resolution graphic LCD display

8. Built-in earphone jack

Most of these radar detectors belong on the top seller lists because of high performance. So, if you have decided to buy a radar detector, you can choose confidently from the above list. But please, before you purchase, check if the use of radar detectors is legal in your states.

Nicola Kennedy publishes articles and reports and provides news, views and information about safe driving and radar detectors for motorcyclists at Radar Detecting Information.

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